James Island, Quillayute River

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James Island, Quillayute River

by | Sep 3, 2023

James Island rises more than 160 feet (49 meters) above the mouth of the Quillayute River, about 32 miles (52 km) south of Neah Bay and 0.6 miles (1 km) west of La Push, Washington. It reputedly takes its name from Francis Wilcox James, a lighthouse keeper and friend of the Quileute, though some accounts credit Jimmie Howeshatta, a Quileute chief, instead. The Quileute call the island A-ka-lat, meaning “top of the rock.” Once a sea stack joined to the mainland by a sand spit, it became fully separated in 1974, when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built a revetment, or training wall, more than 3,000 feet (915 meters) long to reroute the Quillayute River and improve La Push’s harbor.

A fortified Quileute village stood on the island when Captain John Meares first described it in 1788; it remained occupied until the second half of the 19th century, after which mainlanders farmed it. The island holds deep spiritual significance for the Quileute, who traditionally placed the canoes of high-status individuals in its trees after death. Its height also made it a natural lookout, used to spot approaching whales and watch for hostile neighbors. During the second world war it formed part of the U.S. Navy’s Coastal Lookout System. Today the U.S. Coast Guard maintains an automated lighthouse and foghorn there to guide vessels into the harbor.

In 1966 the Department of the Interior removed James Island from the Quillayute Needles National Wildlife Refuge and returned it to the Quileute people, having determined that it lay within the historic Quileute Indian Reservation. That reservation was established in 1889 by an executive order of President Benjamin Harrison, confining the Quileute to a single square mile at La Push, bounded by the Quillayute River to the north, the Pacific Ocean to the west, and what later became Olympic National Park to the east and south. Much of this land lies within a tsunami and flood zone, threatening homes, the school, and other tribal infrastructure. In 2012 Congress passed the Quileute Tribe Tsunami and Flood Protection Act, transferring 785 acres (318 ha) of national park land, plus additional tribal and federal parcels, into trust for the tribe, more than doubling the reservation’s size and allowing the Quileute to relocate key facilities to higher ground. Read more here and here. Explore more of James Island and Quillayute River here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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