Wa’atch River flows generally north for 5 miles (8 km) to the confluence of Educket Creek and then west-southwest for 4.5 miles (7 km) to Makah Bay, about 20 miles (32 km) west-northwest of Clallam Bay and 3.3 miles (5.3 km) southwest of Neah Bay, Washington. The river starts at an elevation of about 1,480 feet (451 m) on the eastern flank of Makah Peaks and flows mostly through the Makah Indian Reservation on the Olympic Peninsula. The river is named after an ancient Makah village and means “bundling up cedar to make a torch.” The Olympic Mountains, which form the core of the Olympic Peninsula, act as a barrier between Puget Sound and the Pacific Ocean. They were formed by the tectonic subduction of the Juan de Fuca Plate beneath the North American Plate at the Cascadia subduction zone. This zone, extending from northern California to British Columbia, features a deep offshore trench and an accretionary wedge of sediments. These marine sediments have been exposed in Washington as the Olympic Mountains. The Olympic Peninsula was partially covered by the Juan de Fuca Lobe of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet during the Late Pleistocene. This ice likely moved into the northwestern tip of the peninsula at present-day Cape Flattery around 24,000 years ago and receded by 14,000 to 12,000 years ago. Cape Flattery, once an island, is now connected to the mainland by Quaternary sediments eroded from surrounding mountains, which filled the Wa’atch River valley. The western part of Cape Flattery at Makah Bay features the Waatch Point siltstone, a rock formation from the Eocene. This siltstone is exposed in the cliffs and wave-cut shore platforms extending over 1,000 feet (305 m) into Makah Bay. At the river mouth near Waatch Point, the cliff base and upper shore form a smooth, sloping ramp where beach gravel is constantly shifted by high-tide waves. From Waatch Point, the irregular shore platform continues northward, fading where the Waatch Point formation passes beneath the more massive Bahobohosh sandstone.
The earliest written history of the Makah people coincides with the arrival of Europeans. The first European to have possibly traveled in this area was the Greek navigator Juan de Fuca, who claimed to have seen the Strait of Anián in 1592. The first recorded European landing on the Olympic Peninsula was by Manual Quimper at Neah Bay in 1790. Quimper named the bay “Bahia de Nunez Gaona” and claimed the surrounding lands for Spain. In 1792, a small Spanish force under Salvador Fidalgo returned to Neah Bay, erecting a stockade that enclosed several buildings, including a forge, a blacksmith shop, a baking oven, and up to ten cabins. After an altercation with the Makah, which resulted in the death of one Spaniard and possibly a dozen or more Makah, Fidalgo abandoned the fort. In the following decades, maritime fur trading and territorial expansion by Russia, Spain, and Britain increased. In 1849, Samuel Hancock, a Euro-American fortune hunter, attempted to establish a trading post at Neah Bay, but his plan never materialized, and he left the area the next spring. In 1855, Governor Isaac I. Stevens met with Makah leaders and presented the Treaty of Neah Bay, which established what is now the Makah Indian Reservation. In 1857, Henry Webster, William and Charles Winsor, and Charles Strong arrived in Neah Bay, building a compound at Baada Point near the northeastern end of the Wa’atch River valley. In 1859, James G. Swan visited the area and described two dwelling houses, an oil house, a storehouse, a fish house, a smokehouse, and a cooperage. Webster later became the first Indian Agent in Neah Bay, and this complex of structures marked the beginning of the sustained Euro-American presence in the area. Large-scale timber harvesting on the Makah Indian Reservation began in the late 1920s, paused during World War II, and resumed in 1946.
In 1950, during the Cold War, the Makah Air Force Station was established as one of 28 permanent radar stations built as part of the North American Air Defense Command. The site, near the mouth of the Wa’atch River, was leased from the Makah Indian Tribe. In 1988, the station was deactivated, and the Air Force closed most facilities. The radar facility was transferred to the Federal Aviation Administration and is now part of the Joint Surveillance System, Western Air Defense Sector. The remaining facilities were returned to the Makah people and now serve as the Makah Tribal Council Center. In 1963, Robert T. Paine from the University of Washington led a rocky intertidal field trip at Makah Bay for a course on the natural history of marine invertebrates. He observed that sea stars were abundant in a band below the mussel beds, leading to the hypothesis that a keystone species has a disproportionately large impact on its environment relative to its abundance. The role of a keystone species in an ecosystem is akin to that of a keystone in an arch. Although the keystone bears the least pressure of any stone in an arch, the arch collapses without it. Similarly, an ecosystem may undergo a dramatic shift if a keystone species is removed, even if that species constitutes a small part of the ecosystem in terms of biomass or productivity. Paine conducted field experiments in Makah Bay and other locations to test this hypothesis. He published a series of influential academic papers that significantly impacted ecological theory and conservation practices. Read more here and here. Explore more of the Wa’atch River and Makah Bay here:
