Dillingham, Nushagak Bay

Dillingham, Nushagak Bay

by | May 3, 2022

Dillingham is a community on the south side of Snag Point at the confluence of the Wood and Nushagak Rivers, at the head of Nushagak Bay on the north coast of Bristol Bay, about 248 miles (400 km) west-southwest of Homer and 166 miles (270 km) southeast of Bethel, Alaska. The original village stood 4 miles (6 km) downstream at a Yup’ik settlement known as Kanakanak. A courthouse built there in 1903 was named after US Senator William Paul Dillingham of Vermont, whose subcommittee investigated Alaskan conditions after the 1898 gold rush. The post office and community later adopted his name. In 1944, the name was transferred to Snag Point, and the original village briefly became Nelsonville, but it is again known as Kanakanak. The Dillingham area is marked by rolling, heavily vegetated hills shaped by Pleistocene and Holocene glaciations. Ice advances from the Alaska Range and the Ahklun Mountains deposited end, lateral, and ground moraine as far south as the Nushagak River, including beneath present-day Dillingham. During the late Wisconsin period, the Aleknagik and Okstukuk glaciers flowed eastward from the Ahklun Mountains—also called the Wood River Mountains—carving deep, fjord-like lakes and leaving morainal and outwash deposits. These glacial formations rim and dam the finger lakes of today’s Wood-Tikchik State Park, named for two distinct lake systems. The southern Wood River system forms an 85-mile (137 km) interconnected water trail leading to the Wood River, which flows south to Snag Point. The northern Tikchik system drains via the Nuyakuk River, a Nushagak tributary. Lakes in both systems span 15–45 miles (24–72 km) in length and reach depths of 342–940 feet (104–287 m).

The Nushagak River region was historically inhabited by Yup’ik speakers of the Western Eskimo dialect, used in villages from Nome to Bristol Bay. Yup’ik settlement of the Nushagak River likely occurred in prehistoric times, when people moved inland from the Bering Sea coast. They already had well-developed salmon-fishing technologies and exploited the river and its tributaries, where salmon are abundant. The local Yup’ik, known as the Kiatagmiut, numbered about 1,900 and occupied the Nushagak River, the lower Mulchatna River, and possibly as far west as the Wood and Tikchik Lakes. Around Nushagak Bay, the population likely did not exceed 500. In the 19th century, the Kiatagmiut wintered in permanent riverside villages and moved to temporary inland camps in spring to hunt and trap. They returned in early summer for salmon fishing. After the fish runs ended, men alone returned inland while women remained to guard the caches. Men came back to the winter villages with the first snowfall in October. Captain James Cook charted the Bristol Bay coast in 1778 but did not enter Nushagak Bay. In 1818, Russian-American Company employees from Kodiak Island explored the area north of Bristol Bay and established a trading post, Aleksandrovski Redoubt, at the Nushagak River’s mouth. In 1820, further explorations of Bristol Bay and the Nushagak River by Mikhail Vasilyev opened southwestern Alaska’s interior to the fur trade. In 1841, the first Russian Orthodox church north of the Alaska Peninsula was built at the redoubt, and missionaries soon followed. After the 1867 Alaska Purchase, the Russian-American Company’s assets were sold to Hutchinson, Kohl & Company of San Francisco, which became the Alaska Commercial Company. It continued operating the Nushagak post and dominated trade in the region well into the 20th century.

The earliest Euro-American fishing in Nushagak Bay focused on salting, but the invention of mechanized salmon canning and the use of fish traps allowed remote salmon runs to be more fully exploited and made profitable. In 1883, the Arctic Packing Company built the first cannery in Bristol Bay. By 1903, ten canneries operated along Nushagak Bay. Initially, Euro-Americans dominated fishing, while Chinese laborers staffed the canneries. Over time, large numbers of Yup’ik were drawn to the bay during the fishing season, and despite widespread prejudice, some secured cannery jobs. Most canneries later closed due to coastal erosion, siltation, industry consolidation, and a shift toward frozen salmon production. In 1901, the Alaska-Portland Packers Association built a cannery near Snag Point, which burned in 1910 and was rebuilt in 1911. It was acquired by Pacific American Fisheries in 1929. The 1956 ban on fish traps in Alaskan waters marked the end for the company, which could not absorb the higher costs of purse seine and gillnet fisheries. In 1965, the cannery was sold to Peter Pan Seafoods, a company founded as P.E. Harris & Co. in 1917 and sold to Nick Bez in 1950 who renamed it in 1962 after its popular canned salmon brand. Peter Pan was sold to Bristol Bay Native Corporation in 1975, then to Nichiro Gyogyo Kaisha, Ltd. in 1979. Nichiro later merged with Maruha Corporation in 2007, forming the world’s largest seafood company. In 2021, Maruha Nichiro sold Peter Pan Seafoods to American buyers, who operated the plant until 2024 when it was sold to Silver Bay Seafoods. Today, the economy of Dillingham is mostly based on commercial salmon and herring fishing, seafood processing, sport fishing, government jobs, and tourism. Read more here and here. Explore more of Dillingham and Nushagak River here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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