Sixes River, Cape Blanco

Sixes River, Cape Blanco

by | Mar 23, 2025

Sixes River drains a watershed of about 85,832 acres (34,735 ha) and flows generally west for about 31 miles (50 km) through coastal forests in southwestern Oregon and enters the Pacific Ocean just north of Cape Blanco, about 19 miles (31 km) south-southwest of Bandon and 8 miles (13 km) north-northwest of Port Orford, Oregon. The watershed covers a rugged, remote part of the Klamath Mountains in the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. The headwaters are reached by a road running east along the river, while the 330‐acre (134 ha) estuary is accessible via the state park at Cape Blanco, with the head of tide about 2.5 miles (4 km) upstream from the river mouth. Accounts of the river’s name vary. In 1851 it was known as Sikhs River—named for the Chinook Jargon word for ‘friend.’ More likely, however, the name derives from the local Kwatami band, called Sik’ses-tene, reputed to mean ‘people by the far north country.’ Miners drawn to the Oregon gold rush probably adopted the spelling ‘Sixes,’ which appears in records as early as 1855 and in an 1888 US post office publication for a pioneer community. Situated at the northern edge of the Klamath Mountains Province, the watershed features Cretaceous-age rocks from the California Coast Ranges and the Oregon Coast Range. These formations have been juxtaposed by plate tectonics, faulting, and deposition, with east–west faults roughly dividing the area. The southern half comprises older Klamath Mountains rocks and Cretaceous Formations—namely, the metamorphosed sedimentary and volcanic rocks of the Galice Formation (intruded by diorite that spawned local gold mineralization) and the Rocky Point and Humbug Mountain formations of sandstones, siltstones, and conglomerates. In contrast, the northern half is underlain by the Otter Point Formation—a sheared mélange of mudstone, sandstone, volcanic rocks, chert, serpentinite, and blueschist comparable to northern California’s Franciscan Complex. Weathering-resistant rocks here form scattered buttes and steep ridges, while overlying Tertiary sediments yield gentle hillslopes.

Oral histories claim Athapaskans of southern Oregon and northern California arrived by canoe from the north. Linguists date their migration at roughly 700 years ago, though archaeological evidence shows coastal human presence 8,000 years ago and inland occupation 11,000 years ago, likely by earlier peoples. The Athapaskans settled in the valleys of the Rogue, Illinois, Coquille, and Umpqua rivers. They formed an extensive trade network and moved seasonally between temporary camps. Coastal tribes established summer fishing camps near river mouths to catch salmon and smelt, pick strawberries and hunt. Among the Lower Rogue River Athapaskan tribes are the Coquille, Shastacosta and Tututni. The Tututni comprised several smaller bands—including the Kwatami, Tututunne, Mikonotunne, Chemetunne, Chetleshin, Kwaishtunnetunne, Yukichetunne and Naltunnetunne—with the Kwatami, once based on the Sixes River, led in the mid-1800s by principal chief Hahhultalah, who claimed all the land from Two Mile Creek near Bandon to Humbug Mountain. European contact began in the late 1700s when British, Spanish and American ships explored Oregon’s coast. In spring 1792, some Tututni met British explorer Captain George Vancouver, and fur traders soon bought sea otter pelts from them. The arrival of settlers, however, introduced infectious diseases that decimated 75–90 percent of Oregon’s native population. In the 1840s, overland wagon trains arrived, though the region remained relatively peaceful for a time. Many Athapaskan villages, situated on prime river terraces, became targets for settlers and miners. By the 1850s, land clearing for farms had destroyed Tututni game trails and hunting grounds. Gold discovered in the Rogue River valley near Port Orford further intensified resource competition, culminating in the Rogue River Wars of 1855–56. In 1856, the Tututni and other Rogue River Indians were removed and forced onto the Coast Indian Reservation.

Patrick Hughes and his wife, Jane O’Neil, arrived from California in 1856. Attracted by gold mining on the Sixes River, he ran a black sand operation before launching a dairy and livestock business in 1860 and acquiring 1,000 acres around Cape Blanco. Cape Blanco’s lighthouse was built in 1870; one of Hughes’s sons served as its early lightkeeper, linking the family to the region’s maritime heritage. In 1898 he built a two-story house on an elevated terrace just south of the river with an ocean view. Known as the Hughes House, it still stands in Cape Blanco State Park as a notable work by builder Pehr Johan Lindberg, a Swedish immigrant who settled in Port Orford in 1882.  In 1885 Charles D. McFarlin, a Cape Cod cranberry grower, arrived in Oregon and introduced cultivation techniques from Massachusetts. McFarlin took pride in selecting superior berry strains for propagation, quickly finding success. North American cranberries are low, creeping shrubs—or vines—that typically reach 7 feet in length and 2–8 inches in height, with wiry stems and small evergreen leaves. Bee‐pollinated flowers yield berries larger than the leaves, though their notable acidity often overwhelms the natural sweetness. Historically, cranberry beds were established in wetlands; today, they are engineered in upland areas with shallow water tables, with topsoil scraped off to form dikes around the beds. On the southern Oregon coast, commercially cultivated cranberries account for about 7 percent of US production. Oregon’s cranberry industry now spans roughly 27,000 acres, mostly around the coastal city of Bandon and on the terraces of the Sixes River. McFarlin’s innovative practices helped transform the region into a significant contributor to the national market. These ventures illustrate the diverse economic pursuits that shaped the southern Oregon coast in the mid- to late-19th century—from mining and agriculture to maritime navigation and innovative horticulture. Read more here and here. Explore more of Sixes River and Cape Blanco here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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