SS Uzbekistan, Darling River

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SS Uzbekistan, Darling River

by | May 28, 2022

The wreck of the SS Uzbekistan is situated at the mouth of the Darling River, which flows south for 6 miles (10 km) through the heavily logged interior forests of southwestern Vancouver Island, about 31 miles (50 km) northwest of Port Renfrew and 9 miles (15 km) south-southeast of Bamfield, British Columbia. The river mouth is in the coastal strip of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve where it cascades over a cliff 10-13 feet (3-4 m) high into a pool and then across a narrow, incised wave-cut platform to the Pacific Ocean. The upper Darling River watershed is underlain by rocks of the Wrangellia terrane, consisting mainly of Early Paleozoic to Mesozoic igneous and sedimentary rocks. These were accreted to the North American margin from the Jurassic to the middle Cretaceous period. During the Jurassic period, magma intruded the terrane, resulting in a belt of plutonic rock known as the Westcoast Crystalline Complex. This complex, located along the coast, is composed mainly of amphibolite, diorite, and migmatite. The coastal rocks, exposed as cliffs, wave-cut platforms, and reefs, are part of the Carmanah Group, a marine sedimentary deposit from the Eocene to Late Oligocene. This group overlies the Wrangellia terrane and typically extends no more than 0.6 miles (1 km) inland, ranging in elevation from below sea level to less than 330 feet (100 meters). At the mouth of the Darling River, energetic waves erode the cliff face, creating a wave-cut platform. Erosion occurs through abrasion, corrosion, and hydraulic action, forming an undercut or notch at the cliff’s base. As erosion undermines the cliff, overhangs collapse when they can no longer support their weight, causing the cliff to retreat landward. The wave-cut platform forms as attrition breaks down collapsed material, some of which washes into the sea. The platform continues to erode in the surf zone and is eventually incised by surge channels, forming separated ledges and isolated reefs.

The Nuu-chah-nulth people have inhabited the area for more than 4,000 years. Their traditional territory extended along most of the west coast of Vancouver Island and across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Makah tribal lands on the western tip of the Olympic Peninsula. The Ditidaht, a tribe of the Nuu-chah-nulth, traditionally occupied land between Bonilla Point and Pachena Point. Their eastern boundary aligns with the Pacheedaht tribe‘s territory at Port Renfrew, with whom they share close cultural, kinship, and linguistic ties. To the west, the neighboring Huu-ay-aht tribe resides at Anacla in Pachena Bay. The term “Ditidaht” translates to “people of diitiida,” referring to a historical village at the mouth of the Jordan River, now in Pacheedaht territory. Like other indigenous groups in North America, the Ditidaht experienced massive depopulation during the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries due to epidemic diseases introduced by Europeans. Internecine warfare, exacerbated by the introduction of European weapons and trade, contributed to population loss and the amalgamation of Ditidaht bands. Some bands disappeared, while others merged. In 1855, traders Peter Francis and William E. Banfield, based on the west coast of Vancouver Island, estimated the Ditidaht population at about 800. In 1859, Governor James Douglas appointed Banfield as a government Agent for the southwest coast of Vancouver Island. The following year, Banfield conducted a census of the Indigenous adult male population, listing 200 Ditidaht men. During the 1890s, Methodist mission schools were established in Whyac and Clo-oose. Many Ditidaht children were sent to the Alberni Indian Residential School, which operated from 1890 to 1973. By the mid-20th century, most remaining Ditidaht lived in Clo-oose or the nearby village of Whyac,  1 mile (1.6 km) northwest, at the outlet of Nitinat Lake on Nitinat Narrows.

The SS Uzbekistan, a 2,569-ton steel steamship, was built in 1937 in France as part of the Lend-Lease program during World War II, which involved the U.S. shipping war materials to Russia. On April 1, 1943, the Uzbekistan and the SS Lamut departed Portland, Oregon, for Seattle to pick up war materials bound for Vladivostok. They encountered stormy weather and poor visibility after clearing the Columbia River around midday. A southeast breeze intensified into a 55-knot (102 kph) gale by 9 pm. At 10 pm, the Lamut ran aground at Teahwit Head on the Olympic Peninsula. The crew of the Uzbekistan mistook the Swiftsure Bank light for the Umatilla Reef light, steering toward what they believed was the Strait of Juan de Fuca entrance. A strong northerly current had carried the ship farther north than anticipated. At 11 pm, the Uzbekistan struck a rocky shelf about 55 miles (89 km) north, near the Darling River. At 4 a.m. the next morning, the US Coast Guard out of Neah Bay located the ship. However, due to the storm and high waves, their actions were limited to illuminating the area with parachute flares. A landing party from the Canadian minesweeper HMCS Outarde, based in Esquimault, manned a whaleboat under the command of Lieutenant Gordon Draeseke and proceeded toward shore. The whaleboat successfully navigated the surf but sustained damage while landing on the rock platform. The Russian crew helped pull the boat ashore, and everyone reached land safely. The next day, they walked to Bamfield, where a Royal Canadian Navy ship eventually picked them up. The wreck was abandoned, broken up by waves, and its pieces were scattered along the shoreline. Today, the ship’s boilers and parts of the propulsion machinery can still be seen at very low tides at the edge of the reef, and pieces of steel are found near the mouth of the Darling River. Read more here and here. Explore more of the SS Uzbekistan and Darling River here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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