Port Hobron, Sitkalidak Island

Port Hobron, Sitkalidak Island

by | Apr 29, 2025

Port Hobron, an abandoned whaling station, sits on the south shore of a fjord of the same name on the north coast of Sitkalidak Island, about 6 miles (10 km) southeast of Old Harbor and 48 miles (77 km) south-southwest of Kodiak, Alaska. The fjord extends southwest for roughly 7 miles (11 km) from Sitkalidak Strait to the head at McCord Bay, offering ready access to the deep waters off eastern Kodiak and the migratory route of Pacific great whalesIvan Petrof, manager of a salmon saltery established here by the Alaska Coast Fishery Company, is credited with naming the station in 1888. Late Pleistocene glaciations carved the fjord from the Ghost Rocks Formation of the Chugach terrane. The Kodiak Archipelago—an emergent part of this accretionary complex—exposes belts of rock that originated in deep ocean trenches. The Ghost Rocks Formation forms a belt 99 miles (159 km) long and 9 miles (15 km) wide along the southeast islands, including central Sitkalidak Island. It abuts the Kodiak Formation to the northwest and the Sitkalidak Formation to the southeast. The formation comprises turbidites interbedded with volcanic flows. Its turbidites, consisting of alternating beds of sandstone and argillite, are widely believed to have formed when a trench‐ridge‐trench triple junction passed through a trench slope or basin during the PaleoceneEocene. Planktonic foraminifera in local limestones provide a maximum depositional age, while isotopic dating of intrusive plutons gives a minimum. These constraints place the Ghost Rocks Formation between 70 and 60 million years old. During the Last Glacial Maximum, the Alaska Peninsula and Kodiak Island were blanketed by a massive glacier complex. Fed by Gulf of Alaska precipitation, the glacier advanced to the continental shelf edge, calving icebergs into the Pacific. The Kodiak ice cap reached its maximum about 13,400 years ago, retreated, then re-advanced slightly at 11,900 years before collapsing by 10,000 years ago and leaving the inner fjords ice-free. Thus, Port Hobron stands as both a historical landmark and a testament to the region’s dynamic geological evolution.

Early human settlers on Kodiak Island likely arrived from the Alaska Peninsula about 7500 years ago. An archaeological site at Ocean Bay on the outer coast of Sitkalidak Island—linked to Port Hobron by an ancient portage trail—attests to one of the region’s earliest cultures. The Ocean Bay people were succeeded by the Kachemak tradition, which appears to have evolved from Ocean Bay around 3500 years ago. External influences spurred changes in the Kachemak tradition about 1000 years ago, giving rise to the Koniag tradition, ancestral to the Alutiiq. The local economy centered on harvesting marine mammals for skins used in clothing, bags, and boat covers, as well as for food and lamp oil. Archaeological middens show that the maritime harvest also included nearshore fishes such as halibut and cod, Pacific salmon, seabirds and their eggs, shellfish, and seaweed. In prehistory, porpoises, sea otters, and sea lions were most commonly hunted. Whalebones appear at every site, though it remains unclear whether early peoples actively hunted whales or simply scavenged stranded carcasses. Historically, Kodiak Alutiiq whalers used single-hull kayaks to target smaller, humpback and fin whales. They smeared slate whaling lances with monkshood—a local flower containing aconite—mixed with human fat as a bonding agent. Once the lance struck the whale’s fins or tail, it took several days for the poison to paralyze the area; about three days later, the animal died and washed ashore. Although whales did not prove profitable for the Russian-American Company, they remained a crucial resource. Boiled and pickled whale meat and oil sustained both Russians and Alutiiq, with Kodiak whalers killing 150–300 whales a year—portions of which were allotted for colonial use. In 1835, Yankee whalers from Nantucket discovered rich whaling grounds off Kodiak. New England vessels soon crowded the waters; at their peak, over 60% of the whale oil arriving at East Coast ports came from Kodiak. By the 1850s, overharvesting had rendered these grounds unprofitable.

In 1888 the Alaska Coast Fishery Company built a salmon saltery on the south shore near Port Hobron’s head. A crew of 18 men harvested salmon from a lake along the portage to Ocean Bay, transporting the catch by horse railway to Port Hobron where barges or dories delivered it to the curing house. The facility was sold and relocated in 1890. In the early 20th century, whaling resurged in the Gulf of Alaska, with fewer than a dozen shore stations operating from Vancouver Island to Akutan Island. In 1926 the American Pacific Whaling Company established a modern, land-based station at the mouth of Fugitive Creek in Port Hobron. Whaling concentrated off the southeastern shores of Kodiak and Afognak Islands; no activity is recorded in the Shelikof Strait. Three principal vessels—Moran, Aberdeen, and Tanginak—operated from the station. Each mounted a large, bomb-loaded harpoon on its bow. Once a whale was killed, it was pumped full of air and flagged so the crew could continue hunting. Whales had to be processed within 24 hours to secure high-grade oil, limiting operations to a 150-mile radius. At Port Hobron, whales were hauled onto flensing platforms and processed with steam winches. The Alaska Steamship Company made weekly stops to deliver supplies and collect oil, while tourists witnessed shore whaling firsthand. Port Hobron operated annually from 1926 to 1937—except in 1931—processing over 2,300 whales in 11 years. It was decommissioned in 1937 due to financial difficulties, declining whale stocks, and stricter regulations. Today only the derelict hull of the wooden vessel Northern, rusting tanks, and wharf piles remain as silent testimony to a bygone era. Short videos on shore whaling at Port Hobron and on early-1900s shore whaling provide further insight into this industry. Read more here and here. Explore more of Port Hobron and Sitkalidak Island here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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