Nikolski, Umnak Island

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Nikolski, Umnak Island

by | Oct 21, 2023

Nikolski is a community near the southwestern end of Umnak Island, one of the Fox Islands in the eastern Aleutian Islands, about 910 miles (1,464 km) southwest of Anchorage and 116 miles (187 km) southwest of Dutch Harbor, Alaska. Umnak is the archipelago’s third-largest island and Nikolski is the only inhabited village. Its rugged landscape reflects its volcanic origins: the island lies along the Aleutian volcanic arc, where the Pacific Plate descends beneath the North American Plate at a rate of 2.6 inches per year (67 mm/yr). Mount Okmok, a large shield volcano at the island’s northeastern end, is capped by a caldera about 6 miles (10 km) wide and 3,519 feet (1,073 m) above sea level at its highest point. The caldera contains cinder cones, lava flows and several lakes. Okmok has erupted primarily basaltic lava, including from cones within the caldera. Southwest of Okmok, a volcanic ridge connects the area to the rest of Umnak and to Mount Recheshnoi, which rises to 6,509 feet (1,984 m), and Mount Vsevidof, at 7,051 feet (2,149 m).

Archaeological evidence from nearby Anangula Island dates human settlement in the area to about 8,500 years ago, while the Chaluka archaeological site in Nikolski documents at least 4,000 years of occupation. The community’s history is rooted in Unangan (Aleut) culture and a maritime subsistence tradition. In 1834, Nikolski served as a base for sea otter hunting by the Russian-American Company and was known as Recheshnoe. By 1880, it was recorded as Nikolsky; the spelling later changed to Nikolski. Fox farming expanded in the 1920s, enabling local Unangan residents to acquire a communal boat, the Umnak Native, which was wrecked in 1933. In January 1942, Fort Glenn Army Air Base was constructed in secret, reportedly disguised as a cannery, on the eastern flank of Mount Okmok. In June, after Japanese attacks on Unalaska and the occupation of Attu and Kiska, Umnak’s residents were evacuated to the Ketchikan area. They were allowed to return in 1944. In the 1950s, the U.S. Air Force built a White Alice communications station on High Hill, north of the village. It provided local employment until its abandonment in 1977.

Today, Nikolski remains a small, remote community whose transportation and economy are shaped by its isolation and rugged surroundings. Nikolski Air Station, a second world war-era unlighted gravel runway about 3,500 feet (1,067 m) long, owned by the U.S. Air Force, supports passenger, mail and cargo services. The village has no harbor or port facilities; barges typically deliver freight once or twice a year, with goods and passengers transferred from Nikolski Bay to shore by smaller vessels. Residents combine seasonal work at crab canneries and fish-processing ships with subsistence harvesting, including salmon, halibut, seals and ducks. The absence of a harbor limits commercial fishing opportunities, while subsistence foods remain important to local diets. Sheep and cattle ranching also form part of Umnak Island’s economy, with thousands of sheep, about 300 cattle and 30 horses reported grazing across the island. Nikolski is served by the Aleutian Pribilof Islands Association, a regional tribal organization representing Unangan communities. Its continued reliance on traditional food gathering and seasonal employment reflects both the persistence of Unangan cultural practices and the challenges of sustaining a remote island community. Read more here and here. Explore more of Nikolski and Umnak Island here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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