Kongiganak, Kuskokwim Bay

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Kongiganak, Kuskokwim Bay

by | Nov 30, 2023

Kongiganak is a Central Yup’ik village, also called Kangirnaq, on the eastern bank of the Kongnignanohk River, about 70 miles (111 km) southwest of Bethel and 11 miles (18 km) east-northeast of Kwigillingok, Alaska. The river flows generally south for 40 miles (64 km) through a watershed of 29,718 acres (12,026 ha) in the Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge to the western shore of Kuskokwim Bay. The terrain is low, flat and marshy. The Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta is an alluvial flood plain with some of the largest wetlands on North America’s west coast, and it is exposed to storm surges from the Bering Sea. Permafrost underlies much of the ground, so thawing soil adds to the instability of building sites. The first recorded name, “Kongiganagamute,” appeared in the 1880 census, as reported by Ivan Petroff, with 175 residents. Edward W. Nelson, a naturalist who explored much of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta for the U.S. Army Signal Corps in 1878 and 1879, documented the region’s zoology, weather and people. At that time, the village stood on the shore of Kuskokwim Bay, about 4.5 miles (7 km) east of Kwigillingok. Repeated flooding from the Bering Sea reportedly forced its abandonment. In the 1960s, residents of Kwigillingok settled the current site on higher ground, and the community first appeared on the 1970 census.

Central Yup’ik people of the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta were historically mobile, following the migration and seasonal availability of subsistence foods. Trade networks spanned the delta by the late 19th century. By the time of Euro-American contact, Yup’ik communities already had Eurasian goods that had travelled across the Bering Strait. Pastolik, or Pastuliarraq, on Pastol Bay near present-day Kotlik, was a trading center that linked these routes to the lower delta. The 19th century brought European expansion and recurring epidemics that devastated Alaska Native populations. The 1900 epidemic, a combined influenza and measles outbreak known locally as the Great Sickness, killed a large share of the population. Several contemporaries estimated that at least half of the Yup’ik on the Kuskokwim died. A 2011 study argues that the disillusionment that followed encouraged many to return to their shamans, even as missionaries pressed to end shamanic practice. Influenza returned in the 1918 pandemic, which killed whole villages in the region. Commercial salmon fishing in the Kuskokwim area began in 1913, although early operations were small. In the 1930s, when dog teams were the main means of hauling freight in western Alaska, a quasi-commercial fishery near McGrath sold dried salmon as dog food. Kongiganak residents still follow traditional fishing and subsistence lifestyles, and salmon fishing remains the primary economic activity.

Erosion has reshaped the riverbank beside the village. From 1952 to 2015, the Kongnignanohk River widened there from an average of 90 feet (27 m) to 115 feet (35 m). Bank erosion was driven by storm surges, soil type and prop wash from tugboats while barges unloaded cargo. In 2015, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers placed a revetment for erosion protection on the eroding bank in front of the village, as part of work the Corps had already identified in its statewide Alaska Baseline Erosion Assessment. Permafrost degradation and flooding continue to threaten critical village infrastructure. Engineers have turned to pile-driving techniques in permafrost as an economical foundation solution, and many village homes now sit on steel piles. As of 2023, residents identified clean water, sanitation and thawing permafrost as their most pressing problems. In June 2023, state geologists collected bathymetric data near the village to monitor the river channel. The 2010 census counted 439 residents, up from 359 in 2000, and the village school, Ayagina’ar Elitnaurvik, is part of the Lower Kuskokwim School District. Since the early 2000s, Kongiganak has developed a community-scale wind-based power system. It supplements electricity at low wind speeds and produces surplus power at higher speeds, which is stored in electric thermal storage devices to heat homes. Read more here and here. Explore more of Kongiganak and Kuskokwim Bay here:

About the background graphic

This ‘warming stripe’ graphic is a visual representation of the change in global temperature from 1850 (top) to 2022 (bottom). Each stripe represents the average global temperature for one year. The average temperature from 1971-2000 is set as the boundary between blue and red. The color scale goes from -0.7°C to +0.7°C. The data are from the UK Met Office HadCRUT4.6 dataset. 

Credit: Professor Ed Hawkins (University of Reading). Click here for more information about the #warmingstripes.

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